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The Case Study
The case study is based on research that took place in two villages, Wogo and Bena, in
Ngadha, an area that approximates to the Southwest third of the Ngada regency, on the island
of Flores, Indonesia. The study was carried between 1989 and 2003, during which time my
position as researcher changed. Between 1989 and 1994, as a tour operator, I took groups of
12 tourists at a time to stay in Ngadha villages. In 1996, a Rapid Rural Appraisal was carried
out. Then, between August 1998 and February 1999, ethnographic fieldwork was undertaken.
I returned to the field in 2001 and 2003.
The Catholic villagers are largely peasants, eking out a hand-to-mouth existence on
poor soils. The rugged mountainous area began to be visited by ‘drifters’ in the 1980s and
has seen increasing numbers of tourists ever since. The most popular village, Bena,
received 9000 tourists in 1997 (Regency Department of Education and Culture, 1998). The
area is one of the poorest in Indonesia, and tourism is considered the area’s best option for
economic development (Umbu Peku Djawang, 1991).
The majority of villagers in Ngadha are passively participating in tourism. Tourists visit
the heart of the villages (nua), consisting of between 20 and 40 traditional wooden houses,
with high-thatched roofs, built around a rectangle, for between 20 minutes and 2 hours.
They wander around the villages, look at the houses and ‘totems to the ancestors’; take
photographs and leave again. In one of the villages, Bena, there is an indigenous weaving
industry, which provides additional interest for tourists and an opportunity for the villagers
to gain financial benefit from tourism. However, in the majority of villages the local people
have the inconvenience of tourism without economic advantage. They are passive participants,
unpaid actors on a stage, gazed at by an affluent audience. However, tourism has
brought non-economic benefits to the villages: convenient water supplies, pride in their
cultural heritage, “friends” all over the world, and the villagers are happy to be visited.
Alongside the villagers positive view of tourism is a feeling of bemusement. Frequently,
I was asked by villagers in Wogo, “Why do they come?” “What do they want?” “They
don’t ask anything; they don’t learn anything; that one didn’t even take any photographs”.
“They just look and take photographs; they do not understand the meanings”. Villagers
thought I should know why tourists came, looked, took photographs and departed.
Similarly, villagers in Bena expressed their lack of understanding of tourists. They are
unclear why tourists visit and what they want. Villagers in both Bena and Wogo bemoaned
their lack of understanding of what tourists really want.
The villagers’ knowledge of tourism comes from experience, guides and the government’s
Tourism Awareness Program (sadar wisata). Contact with tourists has enabled the
villagers to distinguish between “young, low spending, dirty tourists”; “older, fatter, high
spenders”; and “tourists who want to understand”. From the guides villagers have learnt
that tourists are impatient or at least do not like waiting for events; that tourists become
anxious if villagers crowd around them and that tourists require personal space; and that
tourist do not like ‘begging children’. |
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